US

Defy the lies in spring ’25 at Monday Night Foodball

I know. There are a thousand places you’d rather exist than in this corrupted reality, where armies of malignant goons strive to force-feed you gobs of steaming ordure at every instant.

Here are nine of mine: Ireland, Brazil, Serbia, Sicily, northern Spain, Mexico, Puerto Rico, Nigeria.

Hell, Wicker Park in 2014 would be preferable to this.

There is a way there, if only for a few hours each week. Follow me—won’t you?—to a refuge in Avondale, home to the new spring lineup of Monday Night Foodball, the Reader’s weekly chef pop-up at Frank and Mary’s Tavern.

It’s my favorite night of the week, from the moment Tony welcomes you in, to the first beer Phil slides across the bar, to the bewitching food flying out of Mary’s kitchen, to the ever-swelling party of pals, laughing away all the stupid lies.  

I’ve already hyped the return of northwest Indiana craft butchery the Wurst, with smashburger legend Miner-Dunn, manifesting an Irish chip shop this Monday on Saint Patrick’s Day.

That’s followed on March 24 by the debut of Clinton Street Smoked Meats executive chef Chrissy Richards and crew, featuring a Brazilian menu (and a secret dish, via Montreal).

On March 31, Foodball OG Nemanja Milunovic heralds his return to culinary independence, showcasing the tapestry of Balkan cuisine like no one else can.

@kwizmasterkirk

Sicily’s fertile spirals extend from the head of Medusa on April 7 with the Foodball premiere of the Focaccia Mama; while you’d best show up early for Gilda, Jeremy Leven’s Basque tavern returns on April 14, each bracketing the one-year anniversary of Foodball at Frank and Mary’s.

On April 21, Las Flores blooms out of the ashes of its North Park brick-and-mortar, followed by F&M regular Cocinero Verde stepping up to Foodball for the first time on April 28.

I feel the patio warming as Rickie Pérez’s Logan Oyster Socials reopens the raw bar on April 28, and Tacos las Manitas returns on Cinco de Mayo.

May 19 has been blocked out for months for the pop-up preview of Links Taproom’s return from the dead (yes, there will be Buried Alive fries); while on May 26, it’s a special West African Memorial Day afternoon BBQ with old friend of Foodball Dozzy’s Grill

On June 2, precolonial Mexican fermentation freaks Piñatta Chicago make their fifth stand at Frank and Mary’s, but that’s only the beginning of a bullshit-free summer of Monday Night Foodball.

More is already in the works.Meanwhile, as always, follow the chefs, @chicago_reader@frankandmarystavern, and myself for weekly menu drops, ordering info, updates, and the stories behind Chicago’s most exciting foodlums.

@kwizmasterkirk

More in FOOD & DRINK

Take a bite out of Chicago’s delicious food scene.

Michael Quinlan’s late Wicker Park beer bar will rise again in West Town this summer.


Abandoned storefronts are prevalent across the city and often remain vacant for years after a restaurant closes.


The nine-year-old magazine is the only U.S. publication devoted to the Palestinian diaspora.



The Nation of Islam’s iconic dessert is still around, if you know where to look.


A veteran airport restaurateur teams up with a Kentucky master distiller to craft a bourbon for finding common ground.


Mike Sula (he/him) is a senior writer, food reporter, and restaurant critic at the Chicago Reader. He’s been a staffer since 1995.

His story about outlaw charcuterie appeared in Best Food Writing 2010. His story “Chicken of the Trees,” about eating city squirrels, won the James Beard Foundation’s 2013 M.F.K. Fisher Distinguished Writing Award. “The Whole Hog Project,” and “What happens when all-star chefs get in bed with Big Food?” were nominated for JBF Awards.

He’s the author of the anthology An Invasion of Gastronomic Proportions: My Adventures with Chicago Animals, Human and Otherwise, and the editor of the cookbook Reader Recipes: Chicago Cooks and Drinks at Home.

His work has appeared in the Chicago Tribune, the Chicago Sun-Times, NPR’s The Salt, Dill, Harper’s, Plate Magazine, Rolling Stone, and Eater. He’s the former editor in chief of Kitchen Toke.

He lives in Chicago and is the curator of Monday Night Foodball, a weekly chef pop-up hosting Chicago’s most exciting underground and up-and-coming chefs.

Sula speaks English and can be reached on X.


More by Mike Sula



https://chicagoreader.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Murway_Reader_Kiosk-Balkan_13_social.jpg

2025-03-13 16:42:48

Related Articles

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Back to top button